WHAT TO SEE IN CAPPADOCIA ?

THE OPEN-AIR MUSEUM OF GOREME

The Goreme Open Air Museum displays an important period of Byzantine ecclesiastical architecture and Christian history within the interesting landscape structure formed of volcanic tuff.

Its distance from major transportation routes and its rugged area made it a suitable refuge for those who wanted to hide or retreat into religious isolation. Therefore, the Christian communities that lived here managed to keep away from the effects of wars and the authority of the central administration.

Monasticism began in Cappadocia in the late 3rd and early 4th centuries and spread rapidly. And the monks who lived here carved monasteries, churches, chapels, canteens, cells, storehouses and wine-making places out of rock and decorated their walls with frescoes.

In the lll. century, monks with great personalities transformed the region into a center of religious thought and life. In the lV. century Cappadocia was known as the land of great saints such as; Basil the Great, bishop of Caesarea, Gregory of Nyssa and Gregory of Nazianzen. These religious men collected a great many thoughts on Christianity and gave them new content.

Today’s Goreme Open Air Museum is the place where this new monastic system was started. Below we bring some churches and chapels you can visit in the Goreme Valley;

The Dark Church (Karanlık Kilise), The Church of the Apple (Elmalı Kilise), The Church of the Sandals (Çarıklı Kilise), The Church of the Buckle (Tokalı Kilise), The Convent, The Church of St. Barbara (Barbara Kilise), The Chapel of the Prophet Daniel (Daniel Kilise), The Medallion Chapel, The Tomb Chapel, The Chapel of St. Theodocus, The Chapel of St. Eustace, The Nazar Church, The Church of Our Lady, The Church of Jerphanion, The Church of Swords.

THE UNDERGROUND CITIES OF CAPPADOCIA.

Archaeological investigations conducted in the 20th century uncovered a large number of the underground cities in the Cappadocia area. The discovery of churches, chapels, objects, and tombs in the Cappadocia area affirm to us that the first Christian settlers settled in this area and took possession of the shelters, which they later enlarged by carving into the rock rooms, stores for provisions, assembly halls, and numerous churches.

The identity of the original builders of these magnificent “underground cities” may remain unknown forever. The underground complexes are of Spartan simplicity. Unaware of the cannons of beauty, the builders focused on practical problems, particularly security. They created a fortress, designed as a honeycomb structure, with an inaccessible labyrinth of tunnels and shafts, the order of which was known only to those who lived there.

During our tour, when we visit the underground cities of Cappadocia, we warn people who suffer from fear of enclosed places before entering the complex, because some passages-tunnels connecting sections-are sometimes very narrow and can be claustrophobic.

In comparison with the decorations of Cappadocia’s brightly colored churches and chapels, Cappadocia’s underground complexes are devoid of decoration.

We can say that, in the Cappadocia area, thirty-six underground complexes have been discovered so far; Kaymakli, Derinkuyu, Ozkonak, Yesiloz, Cardak, Karacaoren, Tatlarin, Mazi, Özlüce, Gokcetoprak…

Of these six complexes only the two are most important and most visited by travelers, and we will discuss their structures and operation here…

The Underground City of Derinkuyu

The Derinkuyu complex is spread over eight levels, and the total length of the tunnels is more than twenty-five kilometers. Some of the vertical passages are as deep as 60 meters, so much so that they were once used as shafts, as inlet ducts for air, or as additional trapdoors for escape.

The Derinkuyu complex could accommodate a few thousand people and a limited number of domestic animals. The size of the communication tunnels is 140 by 60 cm. An adult could therefore walk through it only by standing hunched over. There was not much room to move around, but this corresponded exactly to the wishes of its builders. In fact, this lack of comfort was amply compensated for by the reassuring fact that no enemy would be able to use weapons inside the burrow. The digging of the shafts and tunnels involved incredible effort, when one considers that only one man could work on them at a time. Using rudimentary tools, he would scratch through the tufa rock by opening a passage with his axe and chisel on his knees and throwing the crushed stone behind him.

Undoubtedly the makers of these tunnels completed works considered to be of great engineering skill even today.

The Underground City of Kaymakli

The Kaymakli complex located in the village of Kaymakli has seven floors, each containing fifteen “dwellings,” each capable of holding about one hundred people. There are several churches and chapels; a veritable labyrinth of tunnels, with circular-shaped stones that, in case of danger were rolled in front of one’s entrance thanks to a system of tracks. These “safety locks,” weighing several tons, were blanched so delicately that they could be moved in front of the entrances even by the strength of a few women alone.

The main ventilation shafts are very deep and have steps. Wine presses and storage tanks are located in the basement, suggesting intensive viticulture. The second floor was reserved for stables to facilitate the exit of animals.
Seeing the immensity of these underground complexes, we cannot help but wonder; but what needs of the inhabitants did these underground colonies meet?
The idea that these complexes were shelters against invaders is very reliable. In antiquity looting was the order of the day. The goal of the raiders of the so-called blitzkrieg was to gather a certain amount of loot as quickly as possible. In this historical period, men, women and children were a legitimate spoils of war. The region was also famous for its abundance of livestock; horses sheep, cows constituted the main wealth, while their loss would cause total economic collapse. Consequently, in times of hostile excursions, the threatened inhabitants of Cappadocia tended to disperse rather than concentrate.
Because of the danger of collapse, the complex can only be visited up to the fifth floor.

THE VALLEY OF ZELVE

The extensive monastic colony of Zelve is almost completely hidden in a blind valley flanked by very high cliffs, with caves and tunnels. Here the landscape features an incredible variety of curiously shaped boulders, commonly called “fairy chimneys,” located in large numbers along the sides of the road leading to Zelve.

Between the lX and Xlll centuries Zelve was a very important Christian religious center; it was here that the first seminary for Cappadocian priests and monks was held.

The layout of the churches in Zelze consists mostly of Latin, Greek and Maltese crosses. The churches in this colony are devoid of showy decorations, which indicates that the inhabitants were opposed to the worship of iconographies. The main churches in the area are the Grape Church (Üzümlü Kilise), the Deer Church (Geyikli Kilise).

Visitors intrigued by the still unexplored maze of tunnels would do well not to venture out on their own. It must be remembered that the underground passages were conceived and created by early Christians to confuse intruders. Hidden traps such as pitfalls, false corridors or tunnels were built for the sole purpose of misleading those who entered.

THE VALLEY OF PASABAG

This location, formerly called “the valley of the monks,” and standing out among the unique beauties of Cappadocia, is one of the valleys worth visiting at all. The Pasabağ valley is full of distinctive tuff fairy chimneys. These fairy chimneys consist of several logs and several hats, and in one of them there is a chapel built in the name of St. Simeon and a hermit cell. The hermits of Cappadocia, in order to get away from worldly life, would retreat to the fairy chimneys and by digging these chimneys from bottom to top, they would build rooms and beds out of rock and live there.

A traveler who comes to Cappadocia, should not end the trip without visiting this unique natural beauty that offers enchanting scenery for photo enthusiasts.

PINK VALLEY

The Rose Valley is one of the most important places to visit in the Cappadocia region. The main reason is the unique sunset view. If you plan to go to the Rose Valley just to watch the sunset, let’s say it would be best to be there at the valley hill at the latest an hour before sunset to find a nice spot. Keep in mind that it will be very crowded. The Rose Valley is one of the places where you can watch the romantic sunset tinting the fairy chimneys pink.

The route of the valley, which is about six kilometers long, is also prefect for trekking among the moonscape and colorful rocks that pick up shades of pink, yellowish and ochre formed by the presence of different minerals. It would be best to consult an experienced person or guide to avoid getting lost among the fairy chimneys.

The valley, once a Chrysitian colony, is dotted with a large number of fairy chimneys excavated and made habitable by ancient farmers.

THE VALLEY OF LOVE To camp in Cappadocia, in the Valley of Love, one of the most beautiful places, you can enjoy both sunrise and the passage of hot air balloons through the valley. The best places to camp are the peaks in the upper part of the valley. The valley, which is about 5 km long, is also a favorite route for hikers. The best times to walk among the varied vegetation and fairy chimneys of different shapes in the valley are the spring and fall months.

Fairy chimneys in the Valley of Love differ in shape, color and size, creating an impressive appearance. The fairy chimneys in this valley are cylindrical and covered. The walking tour is very pleasant. You will observe incredible rock formations among vineyards and fruit trees. You can complete the valley walk in about 2 hours at a gentle pace.

THE VALLEY OF IHLARA

About twenty kilometers from the town of Aksaray on the Göreme road, a large road sign indicates a detour to the village of Ihlara, 35 kilometers inland. The road passes through charming villages, as yet unreached by tourism: Gücünkaya, Kizilkaya, Selime, Yaprakhisar, Belisirma, Ziga (the latter with sulfur hot springs): all small villages that have something interesting to offer lovers of photography and filming.

Each village has its own colony carved into the rock, even in some sections, the road passes between the protruding ruins of a rock dwelling or church.

The Ihlara Valley is a 14-kilometer-long, deep and irregular canyon crossed by a watercourse, the Melendiz. The valley can be accessed by high steps with benches placed at intervals for older people.

Because of the natural beauty of the landscape and the historical and artistic past, the first feeling one gets when facing Ihlara is that of immense tranquility.

In the valley between the villages of Belisirma and Ihlara, there are more than 3,000 caves and about 100 churches and chapels placed on the walls of the Ihlara valley. If we want to mention some important and must-see ones; the Church Under the Tree (Ağacalti Kilisesi), the Church of the Snake (Yilanli Kilise), the Scented Church (Kokar Kilise), the Church of the Hyacinths (Sumbullu Kilise), the Church of the Terraces (Purenliseki Kilise), the Church of St. George, the Church of Bahattin (proprirtary of the church), the Church at the Column (Direkli Kilise).

THE VILLAGES OF CAPPADOCIA

GOREME

Goreme, surrounded by valleys, quarries and numerous fairy chimneys, is the heart of Cappadocia in terms of places to visit.

The Goreme National Historical Park, whose mystical atmosphere intersects with the miracles of nature and the mystery of history, was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1985. Goreme offers extremely beautiful panoramic views to photography enthusiasts with hot air balloons soaring in the air at dawn and fairy chimneys lit up like a movie set in the evening.

A traveler needs more than one day to explore all the scenic and historical attractions in and around the town. There are numerous restaurants, cafes, bars, stores, and souvenir stalls in the center of Goreme.

URGUP

This town is an important commercial and administrative center, much frequented by foreigners coming to Cappadocia. The rocky slope above the town is full of dwellings carved out of caves; at present the tunnels and stairways are in the open due to weathering. Urgup is situated at the junction of two striking gorges, both rich in Christian remains.

Foreigners who have not visited the town in recent years can easily be bewildered by the changes that have taken place here.

The town now has several wide new streets with artistically crafted street lamps, with classy hotels and otel quarries, excellent restaurants, bars carved out of caves, souvenir stores of all kinds, foreign exchange offices, travel agencies, public baths, and bus stations. There are wine factories with wine cellars, romantically furnished, inviting visitors to spend pleasant hours.

Urgup has always been a transit point for those coming to Cappadocia. Now it has become the “capital” of tourism and commerce.

Here is cordially received both the wealthiest tourist and those with less economic means. The hospitality in this country is truly exceptional.

CAVUSIN

The village of Cavusin is located on the road to Avanos, just three kilometers from Goreme, sheltered by a very high, almost perpendicular precipice. This wall is what remains of a large landslide that occurred sometime between the 9th and 13th centuries.

Later much of the plateau, weakened by erosion, split by frosts, heavy rains and earthquakes, poured down into the valley, taking with it dozens of houses and several churches. Many of the buildings we see today were built on top of the debris surely rich in archaeological remains.

As we approach Cavusin, the first building we see is a massive, lonely rock face pierced by windows and natural entrances, commonly called the “Cavusin Castle” because of its resemblance to a medieval castle.

UCHISAR

The village is located on the highest plateau in the Goreme region, from which there are wonderful views. The most important structure is Ortahisar Castle, which was carved about four thousand years ago, at an altitude of 1200 m., the height of the rock is 86 m. The rock structure has been used for both strategic and residential purposes.

As with Ortahisar, here too early Christian life was centered around this fortress tower. A few years ago a tunnel about a kilometer long was discovered that connected the rock fortress with a waterway, which supplied the inhabitants with the water they needed for their needs, without the need to expose themselves to the hostile eyes of the enemy.

There are characteristic examples of Cappadocian civilian architecture at the foot of the rock. In addition, potatoes and apples grown in the region and oranges and lemons brought from the Mediterranean are stored in rock warehouses carved into the slopes of almost every valley. The picturesque cliff is sprinkled with small natural cavities that welcome thousands of birds even today.

ORTAHISAR

Ortahisar is a charming village with many interesting things to see, old romantic stores and with very friendly and hospitable inhabitants who still preserve the old traditions about welcoming foreigners. Unfortunately, the village is often ignored by tour operators because they prefer to take groups to more conspicuous places, denying them the chance to encounter the true rural essence of Anatolia.

The village’s most prominent landmark is the fifty-foot-high “rock tower,” pitted like a bee’s nest by natural caves and tunnels, clearly visible from the road. The stairways and tunnels were made practicable. Climbing to the top of the rocky tower you can see a magnificent panorama, including the cone of the extinct volcano Erciyes (Argeus), eighty kilometers to the east.

In the past, windows and entrances could be closed with circular-shaped stones adapted to the openings; in case of danger they were rolled in front of one’s entrance. In this way the rocks took on a completely natural appearance in which human presence was unsuspected.

AVANOS

The town of Avanos stands on the banks of the Kizilirmak “Red River,” formerly known as “Halys.” Avanos is famous for the wonderful pottery produced in small workshops numbering about three hundred. Avanos earthenware is of the highest quality and everything is made and decorated by hand.

Red clay is obtained from the Avanos Mountains and the Red River, and this craftsmanship has survived from tribe to tribe and from father to son to the present day. Local artisans willingly lend themselves to teaching their craft to “foreign apprentice” travelers without charging them any fees.

The quarries of Avanos produce high-quality onyx. The working of this precious colored marble constitutes one of the one of the most profitable activities of the place.

To get to the underground city of Ozkonak one passes through Avanos. The town itself is devoid of particularly significant remains.

MUSTAFAPASA

The village, formerly known as “Sinasos,” was inhabited by Greek Orthodox Christians until 1924, when the Greek population repatriated. There are several churches and chapels in the surrounding area. The old Greek houses offer rich stonework and frescoes.

The town’s economy once depended on agriculture. But the town is part of Capadocia, a tourist region of Turkey known for its fairy chimneys and medieval churches carved into the rock. Now tourist hotels are being built around the town. An additional expectation is spa tourism.

Also worth seeing is the church on Golgoli Hill, an old residential neighborhood about 5 km from the town, and the surrounding rock-cut rooms and interesting rock formations.